Exploring Gunma along the Northward Golden Route with JR EAST PASS

18 February, 2018

After a long day at Saitama, we took a JR train (Asama 617) from Omiya station to Takasaki station (31 minutes) and then an hour-long taxi ride to Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi (8, Ikahomachi Ikaho, Shibukawa-Shi, Gumma, 377-0102, Japan) – our stay for the night of Day 2 of our trip along the Northward Golden Route with JR EAST PASS. This is a very atas ryokan with a long history that dates back to the 1500s. I was really amazed at how big the rooms are at Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi ryokan. Don’t worry if you don’t see a bed in the room. While you are having your dinner at the ryokan (included with your stay at Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi), the ryokan staff will have setup a mattress on the floor and dim the lights in the room.

ikaho onsen room mattress fukuichi ryokan japanese style room

For dinner at the ryokan, we were treated to a sumptuous feast featuring vegetables and beef that you can only find in the Gunma prefecture. The sukiyaki with Jyoshu beef is the highlight of dinner. You will enjoy a mix of more heavy-flavored dishes (the sukiyaki) with lighter ones i.e. tempura and fresh sashimi. Another must try is the local sake – try a lighter flavored one to complement the heavier tastes of the sukiyaki dish.

ikaho onsen dinner sukiyaki gunma

Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi is well-known for its hot spring onsen of course! Ikaho Onsen refers to the area that this ryokan is located in and this area is known for its many hot springs. Many years ago, Ikaho Onsen had healed a lot of samurai warriors of their injuries from battles. Ikaho was also known as one of the three top resorts along with Nikko and Hakone. The onsen is also known to have purification abilities that can treat infertility. Ikaho Onsen offers two different types of Onsen water, Kogane-no-yu and Shirogane-no-yu. Kogane-no-yu Onsen is known for its characteristic color of yellowish brown caused by the oxidisation of iron when exposed to air. Shirogane-no-yu Onsen is transparent water. You get to experience these different types of Onsen water and both indoor and outdoor Onsen pools too. There are segregated baths for male and female and you are expected to be naked when in the Onsen.

fukuichi ikaho onsen ryokan

Another important landmark is the Stone stairways of Ikaho onsen – a 300 meter long series of stone stairs (ishidan gai) progresses upwards through the middle of the mountain town of Ikaho, flanked by souvenir shops along the way. The stairs measure 365 steps in total and have been renovated over the years. Along the way, you will find foot baths, fountains to drink the water of the hot springs, and tea shops.

ikaho onsen gunma stone stairways 300 steps

Breakfast at Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi was just as sumptuous.

breakfast fukuichi ikaho onsen

Day 3: Gunma

We started our day in Gunma at Usaburo Kokeshi (1591, Nagaoka, Shinto-mura, Kitagunma-gun, Gunma Prefecture, 370-3501) where we got to experience the Japanese tradition of kokeshi doll. At the factory, you get a behind the scene look at the various cute Kokeshi dolls being made. They even have Star Wars themed ones. You can find more designs at the Usaburo Kokeshi doll shop e.g. spiderman, doraemon ones. However do note that each of these dolls sell for about 4300 Yen + (about S$60).

usaburo kokeshi doll gunma

usaburo kokeshi doll gunma star wars

We got to experience Kokeshi doll painting at the shop – for 864 Yen (about S$10+), you can paint your own Kokeshi doll with guidance from the shop staff. You will be provided with paint, brushes, a small kokeshi doll and apron. There are samples around the area so you can take a look to draw inspiration on what you want to paint. You can paint anything you want – quotes, pictures, actual kokeshi doll designs.

usaburo kokeshi doll painting experience gunma

I tried my hand on a minion Kokeshi doll – not bad for a 30 minute job. 🙂 After painting your doll, you will need to set aside some time for them to “baked” the doll so that the paint is set and dry.

usaburo kokeshi doll painting experience gunma

Our next activity was a unique one – we got to take a traditional steam locomotive train i.e. those that you see in movies e.g. Harry Potter and those that go “Choo Choo!” This train is called the SL Retro Minakami and it is operated by the East Japan Railway Company as a coal-powered steam locomotive that serves the Joetsu Line between Takasaki and Minakami Stations during the tourist season and on Saturdays and holidays. The best part is your JR EAST PASS covers travel on the SL Retro Minakami  – you can read more about the SL Retro Minakami here: http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/joyful/d51.html

SL Retro Minakami JR EAST PASS coal steam locomotive train

Along the journey to Minakami, you will be greeted with friendly waving children and train photography enthusiasts on “strategic spots” e.g. bridges and even rooftops to take photos of the train as it passes by them. The landscape you will enjoy along the journey is also quite breathtaking e.g. Myogisan (Mount Myogi), Akagisan (Mount Akagi), Harunasan (Mount Haruna) and the beautiful gorge of Tonegawa (Tone River).

SL Retro Minakami train journey

For our lunch, we enjoyed a train bento set unique to this SL Retro Minakami train with fresh ingredients that are sourced locally e.g. prawns, mushrooms, pork.

SL Retro Minakami Train Bento Meal Lunch

After alighting at Minakami station, we proceeded to the Minakami Kogen Resort 200 (6152-1 Fujiwara,Minakami-machi Tone-gun, Gumma, 379-1721) – a popular resort for locals who can engage in all sorts of snow activities e.g. skiing, tubing or just plain snow play. You don’t have to bring any heavy equipment or even snow wear (although wear a few layers as it can be quite cold at Minakami in January) as you can rent anything at the resort.

skiing minakami kogen ski resort

At the resort, we tried our hand at dog sledding. While it is a dog sledding experience, we were driven around on snowmobiles too – so if you want the thrill of being driven around on a snowmobile  – this is a bonus (you don’t get to drive it though – you will need a license for that).

minakami ski resort dog sledding

During the dog sledding ride, you will be expected to encourage the dogs by shouting praises at them e.g. Good job boy, Keep it up. It is quite an interesting experience – if you are too quiet during the ride, some dogs may stop and look back at you. The guide will always be shouting the praises and commands – you can add on your praises for the dogs so as to encourage them to keep running 🙂

minakami ski resort dog sledding

Our last stop for the day is the Tsukiyono Vidro Park (737-1, Gokan, Minakami-machi Tone-gun, Gumma, 379-1305) where we got to experience sandblasting i.e. creating a smoked glass effect by blasting the glass with fine grain sand at high pressure. First you select the stencil designs you want from a book filled with very cute designs. You can choose as many as like to fill up as much of the mug surface as you want but do note that for complicated designs, it can take you quite some time to stick the stencils.

Tsukiyono Vidro Park sandblasting

After you have pasted the stickers onto the mug, you can go to the sandblast machine where “as the name suggests”, sand will be blasted towards the glass mug at high speeds and thus imprinting the designs on the glass mug. You don’t need a lot of skills to do this – you just have to ensure that the sand is blasted as evenly as possible across the surface.

Tsukiyono Vidro Park sandblasting glass

The end result of my hard work at the Tsukiyono Vidro Park. These would make perfect gifts for kids especially with the many cute designs that they have to offer.

Tsukiyono Vidro Park sandblasting glass mug

Besides the sandblasting experience, you can visit the impressive glass museums and sign up for glass-blowing experience at the workshop. The store also sells all kinds of glassware that you won’t be able to find in Singapore.

We wrapped up our day with a stay at Tatsumikan 辰巳館 (052 Kamimoku, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma Prefecture 379-1303) – a ryokan that has a very homely feeling. The ryokan Japanese-style room is huge and there is an electrically heated blanket for you to use when you are using the coffee table. There are in-room yukatas but if you want prettier kimonos, there is a huge selection to choose from and you can rent them for use during your stay at the ryokan.

tatsumikan room gunma ryokan japanese style

Having experienced sukiyaki at the Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi, we tried a different Gunma specialty here at Tatsumikan – grilled vegetable and beef – also known as Irori Kensan-yaki (Charcoal grilled mountain village cuisine). Our table came with a basket full of vegetables, beef and chicken innards as well as rice balls.

This concept of Irori Kensan-yaki started when a long time ago, samurai warriors skewered wild vegetables and river fish on their swords and cooked them over an open fire.

tatsumikan dinner ryokan grilled vegetables meat

We started our dinner with very delicious appetisers as seen in the picture below.

tatsumikan dinner ryokan appetiser

Then we started grilling fishes – as Gunma is a landlocked prefecture, these are river fishes. Based on past experiences with river fishes, I had expected them to come with a bit more fishy smell but I was pleasantly surprised to taste the freshness of these grilled fishes. You don’t have to grill them for long as they are already cooked. Once you are done grilling them (to heat them up), you can eat the grilled fish right off the stick.

I recommend wearing the in-room yukatas for dinner as your clothes will end up with BBQ smell after dinner. 🙂

tatsumikan dinner grilled fish ryoka

After dinner, it is time for a relaxing onsen before tucking in for the night. The Tatsumikan onsen works in a different way from other onsens. There is only one outdoor onsen so it is rotated between the male and female onsen users i.e. from 8.30am to 8pm, the outdoor onsen can be used by males only and from 8.30pm to 8am, for females only. The timings of 8am to 8.30am and 8pm to 8.30pm are reserved for cleaning.

This is what the outdoor onsen hot spring (Tamayura-no-Yu) for Tatsumikan looks like.

tatsumikan onsen hot spring outdoor

The indoor onsen (Haniwa Bath) for male from 8.30pm to 8am is a rather small one but it is a unique one as it is decorated with a large mural by Kiyoshi Yamashita – a master painter known as the “Van Gogh of Japan”

Since Tatsumikan was opened in 1924, the ryokan had been drawing its hot spring water from Kamimoku hot spring – a natural hot spring formed by melted snow from Mount Tanigawa and riverbed water from the Tone River.

tatsumikan onsen hot spring indoor

As expected with most ryokans, we enjoyed a very sumptuous feast for breakfast. Highlights for me include the chawanmushi and the poached egg dipped in soy sauce.

tatsumikan breakfast ryokan

Day 4 Morning: Gunma (Takuminosato)

We started our Day 4 morning at Takuminosato (still in Gunma) to pick and savour strawberries at the Takumi no Sato Strawberry House (〒379-1418 Gunma-ken, Tone-gun Minakami-machi, Sukawa 847). Unlike strawberry farms in Melbourne (Australia) where you are given a plastic container and allowed to fill it with as many strawberries as you can, you cannot tabao (or takeaway) the strawberries you picked. You are only allowed to pick and eat the strawberries within the farm – for JPY1800, you get to pick and eat all the ichigo (Japanese for strawberry) you want in 30 minutes. Thus, don’t be surprised when you are given a small container like the picture below for your strawberry picking. The round section is for you to put condensed milk so you can dip your strawberries in it before eating so you have a sweet aftertaste.

strawberry picking farm takuminosato gunma

You can ask the friendly Strawberry House staff for help in identifying the best strawberries – those that are round and red are usually the best tasting ones. Examples of good strawberries you can pick can be seen in the picture below.

strawberry picking farm takuminosato gunma

Look out for this greenhouse-looking building if you are looking for the Strawberry House. With this strawberry picking experience, we wrapped up our experience in Gunma and proceeded to our next destination along the Northward Golden Route – Niigata. More about Niigata in the next blog post!

strawberry picking farm takuminosato gunma



Zhiqiang & Tingyi

Comments (2)

  • Exploring Saitama (Omiya and Kawagoe) along the Northward Golden Route with JR EAST PASS – Singapore Travel BlogReply

    18 February, 2018 at 3:13 am

    […] concluded our 2 days at Saitama and headed off to Gunma where we get to experience local doll-making and glass-making experiences as wel… and of course the sumptuous ryokan food. See you at the next blog post… […]

  • Exploring Niigata along the Northward Golden Route with JR EAST PASS – Singapore Travel BlogReply

    19 February, 2018 at 1:11 am

    […] Continuing from our Day 4 morning in Gunma, we took a JR Max Tanigawa 309 train from Jomo Kogen Station to GALA Yuzawa Station. The moment you stepped out of the GALA Yuzawa station, you have arrived at the GALA Yuzawa ski resort (〒949-6101 Niigata-ken Minamiuonoma-gun Yuzawa-machi Ooaza Yuzawa Aza Kayabira 1039-2) – there is no need for complicated bus transfers. What really surprised me were the multi-lingual check-in counters right in front of the train stations – there are GALA Yuzawa staff who can speak Bahasa Indonesian, English, French, Chinese and many other languages. […]

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